Situated between the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland national parks, the green mountains of the North Pennines rise like dragon thorns to form a rugged dividing line across the country. The area offers some of the finest qualities of its more famous neighbors – magnificent hikes, ancient ruins and industrial heritage – but is a quieter alternative for those seeking adventure in the wilds of northern England.

A region of gushing waterfalls and gusty slopes, it’s not hard to see why the region – a national landscape and UNESCO Global Geopark – has long stoked the fires of the imagination. Folklore tells of ghosts in red cloaks who live in waterfalls; demonic river spirits; and spectral horse-drawn carriages clattering along country roads. But it is in the realm of reality, and not in that of myth, that this region is most remarkable. Amid the natural beauty of its landscapes, humanity has left its mark spectacularly, with the scars of old quarries and lead mines now havens for wildlife. The North Pennines also provide a tranquil base for exploring the longest and best preserved stretch of Hadrian’s Wall, one of the most remarkable Roman monuments, just over the border in Northumberland.

What is there to do?

The waterfalls, caves and wild basalt outcrops of the North Pennines are best explored on foot. Highlights of the hike include High Cup Nick, a 9.5-mile, five-hour loop through a glacial valley on the western edge of the North Pennines National Landscape, starting in the village of Dufton. High Force Waterfall tumbles furiously down a steep drop onto the River Tees. It is a pleasant 40 minute riverside walk from the village of Bowlees.

Electric cycling is another popular activity that makes navigating the hills much easier. Hadrian Cycling in Haltwhistle is a great place to grab a bike and explore the area around Hadrian’s Wall.

The North Pennines were a hub of lead and zinc mining in the 19th century and remnants of the industrial era are dotted throughout the landscape. Follow in the footsteps of workers on the Ashes Quarry Geotrail, past ruined gunpowder sheds and former waste piles now overgrown with grass and wildflowers, or discover the the railway history of the region at the Hub Museum in Alston.

And don’t miss the chance to explore the Roman fortress of Birdoswald, high above the River Irthing. Only the foundations remain, but it is nevertheless one of the best preserved forts in Hadrian’s Wall.

Where is the best place to stay?

There is a varied range of accommodation, from camping to Farm B.&BS, but for something special try Farlam Hall. This four-star country hotel is a short walk north of Kirkhouse, a small hamlet of stone cottages on the northern edge of the North Pennines.

The oldest parts of Farlam Hall date back to the 1600s, but its rooms have a modern farmhouse feel. Two restaurants – the Michelin-starred Cedar Tree and the more casual Bistro Enkel – champion local ingredients and produce grown in the hotel’s gardens.

For all its luxury, it’s truly a place geared toward the great outdoors. Hiking maps and booklets are provided in rooms, and the hotel offers packages that include accommodation, tasting menus at Cedar Tree, and daily activities such as guided walks.

Where can I taste local products?

Cumberland sausage roll is a local delicacy and the star attraction on breakfast plates throughout the region. Taste it at The cornera farm shop/cafe overlooking the remains of a Roman fort known as Epiacum. In the neighboring town of Alston, Bakery and Bistro Selliers specializes in a steak and ale pie that is perfect hiking fuel.

After a wild walk over the hills, retire to the Lion House pub in the village of Allendale, which serves award-winning food. Allendale Brew Co. beers from its antique bar.