This series was founded five years ago on the principle that rosé is not limited to the summer season. The proliferation of regions producing pink juice from their native grapes results in a greater variety of styles, structures and colors. But they have one thing in common: the conviviality of the dishes, particularly with the transitional and seasonal menus. Indeed, wine master Jancis Robinson writes: “I have always maintained that rosé is for food and not for summer – especially good rosés, made to be wine rather than substitutes for alcopop. Well, okay! Are you going to argue with her? I didn’t think so, so here are a few to consider:

NORTHWEST PACIFIC

Château Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Rosé 2022, Columbia Valley. A reliable artist from a loyal Washington State producer. Part of the “Contemporary Winemaking Series,” this is an easy-going, pale-colored wine with tones of peach, cherry, and watermelon. Dry with only 1 g/RS and 90 calories/drink, but seems solid.

Echolands Winery Rosé from Taggart Estate Cabernet Franc Vineyards 2023, Walla Walla Washington.. High floral notes accompanied by bright strawberries and summer fruits, plus a bowl of fresh cut melon, water, honeydew and cantaloupe. Not at all what I expected, which was more of the greenish, treacherous character CabFranc is known for. The sister rose of Grenache from Blue Mountain Vineyard is very light in color and temperament, with young strawberries, a little salty note. It was perfect with a roasted salmon salad made with hearty greens and Marzano tomatoes.

Fairsing Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA. A lovely illustrated clover label reflects the natural ground cover of wildflowers you see throughout this sustainability-oriented AVA. This is an estate cultivated from Burgundian clones (Dijon 777 and Pommard). Dried cherry and strawberry, very pleasant, maybe too easy to drink.

Liquid Light RoseWashington State. Just 95 calories per glass and negligible residual sugar, this Cabernet-based rose, named for the recently discovered “fifth form of matter,” is more substantial than you might think with its ripe tropical fruit profile of guava and melon.

Domaine Montinore Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA. Made from organic grapes, it is light pink, very dry, fresh and tangy with its aromas of strawberry and redcurrant and some notes of baked fruit tart; vibrant with good minerality

Revelation “Goose Ridge” 2023, Goose Gap AVA, Washington. Blush pink, strawberry and watermelon. An eye-catching label attracts attention, and the wine doesn’t disappoint with its young, not-quite-ripe strawberries and pink grapefruit. The floral nose is inviting.

Shea Wine CellarsRosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Acidic raspberry and redcurrant, lively but with a certain depth. Its round, medium body and earthy soul make it a good partner for light roasted meats, roasted root vegetables, and eggplant, however you serve it.

Why am I Mr. Pink Mary Ryan Family WineColumbia Valley, Washington. Dry and fruity rosé, very accessible, very floral; goes with anything. Drink, don’t think with this one from the Underground Wine Project

ITALY

Donnafugata Sul Volcano 2021 Etna Ro Rosé se DOC (Sicily). A little spicy with an iodized tone, A little rough and rustic with a higher alcohol at 14.1%.

The Valentina Rosé from Ceruso d’Abruzzo. Very cherry all the way, as the name suggests (ceruso means cherry in Italian. Bright cranberry color, direct fruit flavor with a bit of menthol and a salty brush. Creamy, tangy, clean, medium-bodied appearance; good length for a rose. Have with balsamic glazed salmon.

FURTHER

Atlantis Rosé “Tinta Negra”, DOP Madeirense (Maderia) An unusual offering from the terraced vineyards of the volcanic island. The grape – a cross of Pinot Noir and Grenache – is generally more of a workhorse grown in Madeira, relegated to blends or table wine. But this single-varietal bottling is a bowl of red fruit but with impressive acidity and a saline thread that speaks of the place. Find this and drink!

Chateau Chizay Rosé of Pinot Noir 2022, Ukraine. From a winery founded in 1995 on the former site of a 17th century winery in Transcarpathia, the westernmost wine-growing region of Ukraine. This dry, medium-bodied wine features undertones of cherry and strawberry with some earthy tones and finishing on a mineral note. The winery is the first in Ukraine to sign the Porto Protocol on sustainability.

Golan Heights Wine EstateHerman Mt. Herman Rosé 2022, Galilee. This is a Syrah-based blend that also includes pieces of Pinot Noir and Tinta Cao. Approachable and sweet with tones of raspberry, strawberry and black pepper spice. This comes from high altitude volcanic soils in an area with a unique cold climate in the Golan Heights. Crisp pink, red and copper fruits include cranberry and pomegranate. The winery strives to produce “terroir-driven Mediterranean wines at a phenomenal price.”

IXSIR Grande Réserve 2023, Batroun District, Mont-Liban Lebanon. I was undecided about this wine the three times I tasted it, but hey, rosé from Lebanon! Give it a chance! And I was rewarded. The longer it was open, the more it grew on me, evolving into a savory, herbaceous touch with the anise in the starring role. There’s a tropical undertone to the underlying fruit in this blend of Rhône grapes, and there’s a creaminess before leading to a clean, lively wine. The name IXSIR derives from “Iksir”, the original Arabic word meaning “Elixir”. The IXSIR vineyards peak at an altitude of 1,800 meters.

Mtsvane Estate Pét-Nat Rosé, Georgia. Made 100% from Saperavi. I don’t usually include sparkling wines in the rosé series, but this is a fun sparkler with red fruit and earth tones. And, hey, it’s from Georgia! Unfiltered, so a little cloudy but without the funk that we often find in these wines. In case you are wondering, the word mtsvane means green.

FRANCE

Cave La Romaine Rosé 2023, IGP Méditerranée. The Grenache-Cinsault blend also includes Caladoc, a Languedoc cross of Grenache and Malbec grapes. Produced near Mont Ventoux, at the foot of the Dentelles, this wine is a very light shell pink, tangy and fresh with a little herbaceous salty and slightly bitter touch to keep things interesting.

Domaine de la Royère Les Oliviers Rosé of Mediterranean Cabernet Sauvignon IGP. Originating from the northern confines of the Petit Luberon, it is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon which has spent four months on its lees to give it a round and supple character that is not often found in a CabSauv at this price – a bargain in the surrounding areas of €9.00. Certified organic.

Domaine Isle Saint Pierre 2023, IGP Mediterranean. Located on a small island in the Rhône, this fourth-generation Arlesian winemaker has crafted a fresh, off-dry wine with tones of tropical fruit, ripe, sumptuous guava and melon; the taste of tangerine. Round and creamy, a bit of ripe fruit, but also evoking its maritime terroir. A blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet.

Peyre Rosé “Paparazzi” 2022, IGP Méditerranée. This is a fresh, tangy pink with deeper red fruits like last summer’s strawberries, currants, but also mixed in with pink grapefruit and round flavors of guava and melon. Produced in the region between Gordes and Isle sur al Sorge, in the Vaucluse/Luberon region.