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Decaffeinated coffee is better than ever
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Decaffeinated coffee is better than ever

Decaf has become a punchline over the years. Like the third wave coffee movement As coffee grew and coffee consumers became more sophisticated, laughing at decaf became a cultural pastime. Recently, Lauren Bacall’s 1980s High Point decaf coffee advertisements have gone around TikTokwho inspired a parody on SNL.

Where does decaf’s bad reputation come from? Stale, pre-ground decaf can indeed result in a lackluster cup. The options offered at restaurants are often not ideal. These disappointing cups fueled the “death before decaf” cabal. Restaurant mugs, oversized T-shirts, bumper stickers, and trucker caps display this and other anti-decaf sentiments.

James Hoffmann Square Mile Coffee Roasters in London, considered a pioneer of Britain’s third wave coffee movement, believes decaffeinated coffee may finally be experiencing a shift in perception.

“I think caffeine is still linked to the culture of hustle,” says Hoffmann. “I’m reluctant to make this whole ‘grind’ pun, but there it is. There are still many people who think it’s not “real coffee”. But culture evolves. And I think specialty coffee, in particular, has a role to play in making it a delicious option that doesn’t feel like a compromise.

The specialty coffee world has begun to invest time and energy into making quality decaffeinated coffee. High-quality coffee beans are grown specifically for decaf. Safe and natural methods of decaffeination are being developed. Decaffeinated coffee is defended up to the stage of the national coffee competition. And it’s a winner.

Courtesy of Julie Wolfson


In the coffee world, 2024 will be remembered as the year decaffeinated coffee took first place in the rankings. American Coffee Championships. Weihong Zhang Blendin Coffee Club in Houston surprised many when he won the Brewers Cup with decaffeinated Typica Los Nogales coffee shop.

“Decaf is definitely making headway these days,” says Jaymie Laoa coffee consultant based in Los Angeles. “This year has legitimized decaffeinated coffee for a lot of people.”

Masha Zanozinaeducator at Counter Culture Coffee and judge at this year’s Brewers Cup, agrees. “The bad reputation of decaf is changing,” she says. “I think we’ll see more and more really good quality decafs over the next few years. Especially in high-end restaurants and hopefully bars as well. Someone winning the Brewers Cup championship on decaf is a huge thing for people to start thinking differently about decaf.

Why drink decaffeinated?

Matthew Smith of Wimp Decaf Coffee Co. in South Carolina, started his company to defend decaf. He evangelizes decaffeinated, a drink gentler on the stomach than its caffeinated counterpart. Smith lists a list of other benefits: It prevents overstimulation. This lowers blood pressure. There is less risk of addiction. It is full of antioxidants. And this preserves restful sleep.

“People want good coffee, without the chaos,” he says. “They shouldn’t have to choose between one of life’s best rituals and feeling good. It’s coffee without the madness.

Colombian-American coffee entrepreneur Juan Diaz de KWC Cafe is excited about decaf. His company sources, roasts and exports coffee from Colombia, and he has seen interest in decaf in recent years. “Demand is increasing dramatically,” he says.

The journey from coffee to decaf

In the early 1900s, Ludwig Roselius, a German coffee merchant, discovered that when a shipment of his coffee beans was soaked in salt water, it lost much of its caffeine. He founded Kaffee HAG, a brand dedicated to decaffeinated coffee. In 1910, Sanka was created for the French market. Credited with commercializing decaffeinated coffee, Roselius developed a technique for rinsing coffee with benzene.

Chemicals like benzene made decaffeination easier to process but were later associated with health problems. Times have changed considerably. Access to high-quality coffee is now wider and more natural and safer processing techniques are being developed.

The patented Swiss Water and Mountain Water processes are natural methods of decaffeinating coffee beans. Based in Vancouver, Canada for over 30 years, Water Switzerland has perfected its natural water-based process. “We’re not in Switzerland and we don’t use Swiss water,” says Stacey Lynden, head of the Cupping Lab.

The coffee beans arrive at the Swiss Water factory green and unroasted. “It’s quite a process to decaffeinate green coffee,” she says. “We need to make sure it can withstand that process and has the right humidity, density and water activity.”

Swiss Water manufactures green coffee extract (GCE). He soaks the beans in water until they swell to twice their natural size. Coffee beans are prepared using a process that removes the outer silver skin and then any dust or dirt. The GCE circulates the beans to extract the caffeine through a carbon filter. The goal is to create a product that is as close to the original as possible. Without the caffeine, of course.

Ethyl acetate (EA), also known as the sugarcane process, is a natural decaffeination method used in Colombia. The coffee cherries are separated into coffee beans and the outer flesh from the mucilage is removed by pulping and then processed through a washing process.

The beans are soaked for two days in their own mucilage, which has been fermented with ethyl acetate to gently remove the caffeine. The process imparts a nuanced flavor complexity. This method is gain popularityand there is hope for growth in Colombia and other coffee-producing countries.

Where to buy good decaffeinated beans?

Courtesy of Julie Wolfson


Zhang’s award-winning cafe, Typical Los Nogales decaf at Blendin Coffee Club, was grown in the Huila region of Colombia, by Oscar Hernandez at Finca La Nogales.

“I never thought this café would be used for such a competition,” says Hernández. “It was an immense joy. The work behind this cafe has been enormous. Award-winning beans can be ordered directly from Blendin.

At this year’s American Coffee Championships, while Zhang won the Brewers Cup, Frank La, of Be a brilliant coffee in Los Angeles, won first place in the Barista Championship. At Be Bright, La is discerning about the coffee he roasts. It is Be calm the decaffeinated was produced by Small coffee producer and decaffeinated at Descafecol. “This decaf from Huila, Colombia, blew our minds,” says La.

Decaffeinated specialists like Wimp in South Carolina are championing the industry and seeking to make it more widely available.

Courtesy of Julie Wolfson


“Wimp is my way of giving the bird to hustle culture,” says Smith. “After quitting alcohol eight years ago, I realized that my unhealthy relationship with caffeine was the next thing disrupting my peace. I wanted to slow down at a good pace, do less and do it better. But I love coffee and the whole social experience that comes with it. So I figured if I couldn’t find a good decaf, I’d make it myself.

THE Wimp Variety Kit offers coffees using Swiss Water, EA and 24-hour anaerobic processes.

Chances are your favorite specialty coffee supplier offers a decaf option. These coffee professionals will not sell you just any decaf. They need to source something that they are proud to sell alongside their other high quality beans.

Currently, Sey offers its EA Terrain Mix, Counterculture offers three decaffeinated options, Brandy wine has a Mountain Water decaf from Ethiopia, and Presidio decaffeinated by Dune comes from various small Colombian producers.

What is the best way to prepare decaf?

Coffee champion Zhang holds a doctorate in biochemistry. It focuses on coffee as an art and science. “Our store always carries decaf,” he says. “I focus on data for consistency. Art is imagination, creativity, bringing sensory experiences to the client. Decaf reacts differently to water due to its porous texture. It can move quickly.

Zhang recommends immersion methods, like a French press, Hario Switch, or Moka dripper.

At Wimp, Smith has his own brewing tips.

Courtesy of Julie Wolfson


“Use a finer grind for decaf,” he says. “Add 1 to 2 grams more coffee than usual. Try extracting a little longer, but to avoid bitterness, don’t overdo it. For a pour over, use a medium coarse grind. Heat the water to about 195-200°F, cooler than usual. Extend the brew time from 30 seconds to one minute. For filter coffee, use about 10-15% more coffee grounds. Medium grind works best. Check the brewing temperature. 195-205° is best for optimal flavor.

Because it is porous, decaf coffee stagnates more quickly than caffeinated coffee with similar roast levels. Smith also recommends keeping decaf in the freezer in airtight bags or containers.

Baristas and cafe owners love to talk coffee. Don’t hesitate to ask for brewing advice.

It’s time to fall in love with decaf

“Luckily, the quality of decaf, from seed to cup, is only getting better, which is a good thing,” says Hoffman.

It is becoming an increasingly popular sentiment that decaf lovers are considered the real coffee drinkers.

“At Counter Culture Coffee, we say decaf is for true lovers,” says Zanozina. “People who drink decaf want to drink coffee just for the coffee flavor.”

If top professionals are willing to create stickers that might say “Decaf is for coffee lovers,” then maybe it’s time to brew a pot of coffee and enjoy it.

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