As our ship heads from one pole to the other, it quietly scours the ocean floor in search of phytoplankton, sampling as it goes. .A Viking Explorer voyage, including destinations such as Toronto, Quebec, Saguenay, Charlottetown, Halifax and new York city ​​on the canadian The discovery cruise is clearly not like most other cruises you have experienced. In fact, think of a cruise and your imagination may not be enough to spend time with a birder discussing the finer features of kittiwakes and sea eagles. Your vision may not include binoculars of quality to help you with your whale watching activities, or a fully equipped science laboratory, special operations boats and submarines, but on the Viking Polaris we experience all this and much more.

This ‘extra’ includes expertly prepared martinis, excellent food, libraries of brilliant books, board games, puzzles, guided tours and evening entertainment; you benefit from all the comfort of a cruise, but with a whole other added dimension. You could actually go an entire trip without meeting chief scientist Meghan Goggins in her well-equipped lair. Many do, opting instead for art classes, spa sessions, music and lots of wonderful harbor excursions, but I’m intrigued and want to know more.

Many cruise lines are jumping on the citizen science bandwagon, but, currently, Viking and the French cruise line Ponant are the only two with serious science labs on board, and as Goggins tells me, the Viking Explorer itineraries are an absolute boon for scientific researchers. We gathered in Toronto, Canada, but as the Polaris embarks on a pole-to-pole adventure (with a few scenic loops along the way), it provides an ideal opportunity to take samples and surveys at long distance. Through partnerships with institutions such as Cornell and Cambridge Universities, as well as the Norwegian Polar Institute, the data collected provides vital insights, while benefiting from engaging expert discussions.

This is immediately evident the morning we launch a weather balloon. Cups of hot chocolate, with an optional shot of something stronger, are served during the countdown to exit. It’s a surprisingly emotional moment and, as an avid weather forecaster, I’m even more excited to join a group later to discuss the results, sent back from the stratosphere.

The entire journey ends up offering a series of unexpected and fascinating experiences. They are unexpected in that our itinerary, which takes us up the St. Lawrence River to Nova Scotia, stops in places that are both isolated and wonderful, far from the usual tourist trails. Our tours are fleeting and traveling on a ship designed to cross polar ice gives an added sense of adventure to the day. The travel profile is reflected in our travel companions: in this part of the world, they are predominantly American, although there are a total of 52 nationalities on board. Viking cruises are 18+ and Polaris can only accommodate a maximum of 378 guests. I meet intrepid couples, extended adult families and many retirees whose career profiles include naturalists, photographers, scientists and surgeons. This makes for great conversations at aperitif time, but also fierce competition during afternoon quizzes.

I spend time on deck, wrapped up, while we sail the Saguenay Fjord. Birds dance on air currents above frozen waterfalls, and it soon begins to sound meditative, like a real live relaxation tape. Our eyes are open to whales: belugas and mink; and dolphins too, and there is always a crew member available to help us identify our sightings. Over time, I realize that the most exciting sea creatures tend to appear when I go below deck, and so, for the sake of the whale watching community on board, I decide to retire early to the bar. Since it also offers great views (as well as cocktails and smooth jazz), I don’t think it’s too big a sacrifice.

( Taking a cruise with two 10 year olds: know your destinations, don’t overload your luggage and bring plenty of Calpol and cashOpens in a new window )

As our trip progresses, I begin to wonder if I prefer days at sea or days on land. I certainly enjoy the calming Scandi-Luxe setting of my cabin, opening my balcony window on the warmest nights to marvel at the depth of the starry sky. In Charlottetown, it is fascinating to find a sign in Irish: in the 1830s, Edward Whelan, born in Ballina, settled in this part of the world and became one of the founders of the Canadian Confederation. There are small communities and islands in these areas where strong Irish accents can still be heard, evidence of the isolation experienced by the early settlers. This is balanced by our visits to First Nations areas, like the Huron-Wendat village outside Quebec, where our local guide explains how colonialism interrupted the older stories of his people, and I realize that All human history is a story of migration and settlement. The lucky travelers were those who were welcomed, although it is clear from the stories we hear that the welcomers were not always similarly lucky.

( The most Irish island in the worldOpens in a new window )

In Quebec, at the site of Montmorency Falls – higher than Niagara – I also dust off my rusty French and receive a lesson on the difficulties of the Acadian settlers, eventually exiled to New Orleans and bringing with them what would become mix to become Cajun culture. In Trois-Rivières, a culinary tour introduces us to the typically delicious taste of fiddlehead ferns and, later, a selection of excellent tequilas. There’s kayaking, expert-led nature walks, a wild blueberry and gin tasting, a brush with blueberry pasta (less strange than it sounds), and a hike at Pennant Point, outside of Halifax, where I am blown away by the pristine beauty.

A welcome feature of travel is that there is always at least one excursion option included in your fare, so you can budget and enjoy accordingly. If you’re more independent-minded, do some research in advance and find out which ports are also easily explored on your own. On this route, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, is a nice walk and has an excellent art museum where I chat with friendly locals who seem delighted to have traveled so far. “We have an Irish girl here,” I hear them call to a new arrival, pointing me to an upper gallery.

That afternoon we visited the property of Lucy Maud Montgomery, author of the stories of Anne of Green Gables. It’s Montgomery’s 150th birthday in November, and those who want to are buying some rather alarming “Anne” refrigerator magnets in the gift shop. Further north still, Halifax is of interest to anyone fascinated by the story of the Titanic, as it is from there that the lifeboats were launched and the grim salvage operation was carried out. There is emotion in our guide’s voice as she recounts the past.

Towards the end of our trip we head back down the Atlantic coast, as the Polaris itinerary includes taking the time to wait for the ice to be good to go even further north. If you have around €90,000, you can sail with Viking from pole to pole, a journey lasting almost three months. Those who have done it, or who have made the Antarctic stop, are eager to tell stories of icebergs and whales and penguins, but I find that their words and images, as astonishing as they are, resonate with me. prevent me from delighting in the wildlife and wonders of the place. I am right now. And it’s a remarkable development today, albeit in a more discreet way.

On our last morning, that changes when we rise early to watch the ship slide toward Manhattan at dawn. Mists rise as the Statue of Liberty comes into view and the sunrise shines on the city’s iconic skyscrapers. It’s a testament to everything we’ve seen and done on this trip that, as incredibly wonderful as it is, it’s not really my moment to remember. Instead, the trip left me with a lingering sense of discovery and wonder that feels all the more precious to me than any iconic photo opportunity. I’m sure there must be a scientific explanation for this.

Getting there

Gemma Tipton was Viking’s guest during the Canadian discovery cruise, passing through Toronto, Trois-Rivières, Quebec, Saguenay, Sept-Îles, Cap-aux-Meules, Charlottetown, Halifax and New York. From £7,695 per person for sailing April 11-23, 2025. Includes return flights from London, destination transfers and 12 nights in a Nordic balcony cabin, plus all meals on board , including wine, beer and soft drinks with meals, as well as some excursions, conferences, entertainment, wifi and gratuities. Reservations on viking.com. You will need a Canadian eTA, available online at canada.ca at a cost of $7 CAD; and a US Esta for entry into New York, costing US$21.

What to bring

Plan to wrap up warm and bring clothes for warmer days at the start and end of your trip. Temperatures can range from the 20s in Toronto and Manhattan to -9 further north. There are no formal parties on board and most guests spend their day in variations of the athleisure wear/jean look. Evenings are decorated with casual elegance, that is, elegant dresses and skirts, pants and shirts. You will also need walking shoes and swimwear. Power outlets are European two-pin, American flat-pin, and USB.